Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine.

Nylon vs dyneema slings reddit 4oz/square yard and is even lighter than dyneema X-grid. Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. Depending on the situation I'll either use single length nylon slings or a knotted double that I clip into the anchors. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the i think it's a nylon sling, not dyneema. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. I have used my dyneema slings as a prusik to ascend in self rescue scenarios and have put it back in my rotation, but I would be hesitant to do the same with rappelling as it produces much more heat. Unless you are racking up every piece of gear you own for a big wall, the extra weight/bulk is probably not a problem. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. Lineloc 3's require somewhere around a 2mm line and minis require about 1. I personally use the thicker nylon webbing rather than the Dyneema slings because of these issues. It's not like dyneema slings with overhand knots are required for anything. It was getting too complicated. Use a water knot and leave 3" tails. Here's a link to remind us why ropes break at the knot and here's a link to remind us why knotted slings are more dangerous than sewn slings FWIW dyneema knots will slip more than nylon knots, making the second video more appropriate for this thread. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. You'll need about 10 feet of webbing to make a 4 foot sling. This is for sport, of course (2 generally Just for the record, if you played out the scenario described for dyneema with nylon instead, there is still a chance the sling would break (though less), you would probably blow any natural pro, and there's a more than good chance that it would cause internal injuries to the climber. Dyneema does pretty much last forever, short of cutting it. We have ropes, cord, nylon slings that work great and don't fail under these unrealistic tests like dyneema. Thats why Dyneema has little bits of coloured plastic in them too - they're nylon to help improve the wear life of the sling. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want Dyneema in general does not absorb as much force as nylon does in anchor situations. Didn't want to overcomplicate things. While it is an interesting video and has some important I'd have said Nylon slings (Lyon makes the best caving slings) over Dyneema for abrasion resistance. 5kN. Before you link me to other threads of nylon vs dyneema, please read the response I got from Dan's team below as this is not normal dyneema. Then I become most accustomed to slings and that makes it safer to me, more than all this talk about static vs dynamic loading and such. Are nylon slings really dynamic enough for it to matter, or are you referring to dyneema's tendency to melt if you take a static fall onto a knot? Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video (DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. 5kN (sketchy). Cheaper and more durable, the sheath protects the core which hold most of the strength. I highly recommend dyneema over nylon though because nylon gets really bulky when you have a lot of them. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. But would the lack of stretch in dyneema negate the extensive loading of one anchor, achieving equalization? If anyone is curious about the poor equalization properties of a cordelette I'm happy to go over it, and hear other people's opinions on the matter. The carabiners are very good at orientating themselves, and even if they get cross loaded usually they're still stronger than half the gear you'll put in the wall and should hold most ordinary falls. Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? Apr 11, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. uk Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. This sling retails Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. For the 4 foot slings, my preference is to tie them out of nylon (not Dyneema) webbing. This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. I'd say that if you use thin dyneema slings the chance of cross loading is very slim. While Dyneema® has a much greater strength-weight ratio (static load) than nylon, its Few are really aware of it but Xpac X21 is 25% lighter than VX21 @ around 4. Dyneema composite fabric is 2 layers of plastic film with some Dyneema fibers laminated in between to reinforce it. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. Use for 60cm Nylon sling For what cases do you specifically use nylons slings? Someone gifted a couple of nylon 60 cm slings but I never take them with me because I find dyneema more convenient. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. Dyneema fiber offers higher tensile strength, superior abrasion resistance, and lighter weight compared to nylon fiber, making it ideal for climbing slings. Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. Cheaper as well. However, these tests are on static loads, and a dynamic rope changes this considerably. co. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. i can't find literature that says only nylon specifically, but they do specify dyneema on the contact sling, so i assume this has no dyneema in it. Something to consider. Dyneema? What about a standard anchor configuration with a knotted sling? Do multiple knots in the same cord decrease the strength Specifically the nylon VS Dyneema flooring of the Durston xmid pro 2+. I think anecdotal evidence would say similar. Dyneema has a much lower melting temperature than nylon. Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying to cut costs. BD slings are probably most popular just cause BD is ubiquitous. I reached out to Dan's team and I received the following response talking about the two fabric floor options. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). ! My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. Titan 5mm (dyneema): 13. (While it varies depending on the material and the type of knot, a conservative rule of thumb is about 50%. It's a polyester face fabric laminated to a dyneema composite fabric. So Dyneema is really strong in a static setting, but can break a lot easier than nylon when loaded dynamically. Have just swapped out some old nylon alpine draws for dynex ones to cut bulk, but I’m still weighing in heavier than I’d like. Tech cord 5mm (aramid fiber): 22kN!!! For comparison: Nylon 7mm: ~13kN Nylon 8mm: ~17kN Strength of nylon does go up significantly with a bit of extra bulk/weight. Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. The HMG packs use fabric made by the company Dyneema, but it's not made out of the Dyneema Fiber (utra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene). Get some nylon accessory cord for your friction hitch. Has anyone ever heard of a situation where prussiking with slings has melted them? Is this a real threat, and is it necessary to throw a sling away once it's been used as a prussik? I've been told that the friction between the sling and the rope is high enough to raise the temperature enough to melt nylon and dyneema slings. Dyneema slings can be made to work if you have nothing else, but the material is so slippery it's hard to get them to bite. Nylon has the knot and some stretch to help your anchor survive. Nylon fiber provides better elasticity and UV resistance but is heavier and less durable under sharp edge wear. When you fall on a knotted sling you are flash tightening the knot, which creates a lot of friction which an melt thin dyneema. Learn how to choose the type you need. The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but that's only occasionally. Unless it is tech cord that has a high strength core made of dyneema/spectra or technora it's probably not strong enough for the application. 3mm. So, I understand that using a cordelette as a belay anchor really isn't the safest with nylon/dynamic materials. . See full list on alpinetrek. ago Its not that strength of knotted spectra was the problem, you should pretty much assume a 50% loss in strength in any sling you tie a knot in, whether nylon or spectra. Apr 20, 2006 · In reply to CJD: Nylon is harder wearing than Dyneema. Nylon cord is the most common. my whoopie slings on my hammock for almost 7 years now and i go out fairly frequently. You have to tie a knot in it to make a loop. Jul 2, 2024 · Tying a knot in rope, cord or sling decreases the strength. A flat dyneema or nylon piece of webbing in a loop sewn closed is usually referred to as a sling. By the way, my ILE Default Blackout Patchwork is probably constructed from more different fabrics than any other pack: VX21 X-Pac, X50 X-Pac, 500D Cordura / 275 Dyneema Ripstop, and 1050D Ballistic Nylon. That sling is a composite construction of dyneema and nylon. The benefits outweigh the risks. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. Or so said Hugh Banner when I talked to him about it Thats most likely why BD have not gone to dyneema slings on their camalots - so that they don't need to be reslung as often. Check the breaking strength of your 5mm cord. Feb 25, 2019 · Polyester shows significant promise for tents, but we’ll continue to predominantly use nylon until we’ve done enough testing to be confident that the advantages of poly outweigh its drawbacks. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Polyamide is nylon and often a bit lighter but I hear the UV resistance is considerably less. It doesn't really matter in the end, you could go with any certified brand. Easy to understand. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Its that the DMM video was in specific circumstances with dynamic falls onto the slings with no rope in the system, which IS dangerous. Alpine draws vs shoulder slings? I’m working on making my rack more alpine-friendly. I'm sure someone is going to end up posting that video from DMM about breaking slings. Cordalette (according to Leubben, Long, and McNamara) is typically round climbing rope between 4-7mm. Then it's as simple as using that to extend my atc and backing up with an autoblock. I've used Vs with 1. Dyneema Composite Fabric Dyneema Composite Fabric, or DCF, is the new kid on the block when it comes to tent fabrics. The Dangers of Short Static Falls - Why nylon slings are better than Dyneema comments Top Add a Comment bearbreeder • 11 yr. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. Dyneema is that nylon is a lot more dynamic. Also tying your rope around a natural anchor mid pitch takes too much work and too much rope lenght. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when I know that dyneema slings in climbing do degrade in the sun, and finding one at an anchor means you need to test it to make sure it doesn't turn to dust if you weight it. ) Is there much of a difference in strength loss between cord and webbing? What about nylon vs. Ive been considering purchasing a tarp and I am unsure whether or not to go ahead and buy a DCF or try out a Silnylon one first before making the investment. However, nylon has a few notable advantages. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Moreover, certain knots (like the girth hitch) will have a tendency to cut through the sling when dyneema is under load (doesn't happen with nylon). I remember looking into a ton of options for a PAS and just kindastopped. 8mm Mammut dyneema stitched sling, I think it's 180cm- carry on glacier slogs for crevasse rescue anchor building 8mm Mammut dyneema shoulder-length stitched sling - girth hitched to picket (s) How many folks here use 6mm (or smaller) for rock anchors? 7mm? Also curious about the dyneema slings in the alpine. Some people use 7mm cordelettes (10kn), some people use nylon or dyneema slings (22kn), and some people use the rope. I'd considered getting the Dyneema version but it feels too thick for sling use (unlike the Aer Tech Sling 2 that I love), packing that much weight would be murder on my back without the balanced suspension of a backpack/ We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. All you can do is keep an eye on it and if it looks like there is a tear or you get some chemical on it it will be fine for many years to come. How do polyester slings compare to nylon and Dyneema, and why are they never mentioned? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. 2 micro cord and been ok, but at that point, prusik/taught lines work better Ideally cord can hold knots, and dyneema is too stiff and slick to do so effectively. This has a 200 denier woven nylon face fabric which will last longer than even the heavy weight hybrid DCF with polyester 150d face fabric. The slings seem to have twice the durability, so wouldn't those be my safest bet? Sep 1, 2023 · In the battle between nylon and Dyneema for the best material for climbing slings, it might seem that nylon is slowly losing the battle. Understanding the properties of these man-made fibres will guide us to best practice at the crag for using such products. Straightforward. Nylon (polyamide) and Dyneema®/Spectra® (polyethylene) are two synthetic raw materials with distinct strengths and weaknesses used in the manufacture of slings and quickdraws. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. Twenty feet of 7mm static nylon accessory cord should do the job. ! Not to mention threads. But people walked away with the wrong conclusion, that you shouldn't knot dyneema slings Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. The second rope is introduced into the system the rope is acting as the dynamic decelerator on a much longer timescale compared to either the dyneema or nylon sling, so both are essentially treated as static in those cases. knotted dyneema has ~50% strength reduction, which on a 22kN sling is 11kN, or still well within safety margins for some applications. I get it. However, you don't really need to tie a knot in it, just a few wraps around a post, bring the two bights together and throw a biner in them. Be aware that the strength does vary depending on the type of material: Nylon 5mm: Only about 5. In a pinch, a nylon sling or cordelette is a good alternative to your normal prusik loop - Anything made with dyneema is a less safe option as the ~300F~ melting point is much more attainable than that of nylon's ~400F~, it's also more suceptible to physical damage from abrasion. Thanks for the detailed review. 15mm or 9/16" should be fine. Add in that spectra and dyneema are more expensive, and the only advantage of these materials is that they are smaller and lighter weight than nylon pieces. Yeah, I generally just use slings because it works with either swinging leads or blocks. Other than the sheer difference in bulk, why wouldn't I change? Yes, knots in slings/ropes reduce their strength and u/enkoopa is right, if you are taking 11 kN whips on this stuff you are doing something dangerous. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Is there any difference apart from weight savings? Does anyone else have any experience with this? Thanks!. It has some of the best properties of both including a very high static strength and decent abrasion resistance. People like the Mammut slings a lot as well. The most obvious is the fact that it is far more affordable than Dyneema, which is one of many reasons why the Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is an ideal choice for budget-conscious climbers. Only thing to keep in mind with nylon vs.